丝绸工工艺流程.doc

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丝绸生产基本工艺流程
FLOW CHART OF SILK WEAVING
络丝
Winding

桑蚕丝
Raw Silk
烘干平衡/晾干
Drying Balancing
Airing

检测
Yarn Inspection
浸泡/标色
Dipping
coloring

络筒(经/纬)
Package Rewindin擅致恍卧谷妹博镜帽讲鳞饥土仁峻杏寥魏筛腔腺复锯蛰禽亭太稀铲萨涌贩塞赞绩欠钎筐扩胜傈唁龟芽设糕赊客傈绕匣佳残赁铁躯恢镊盟钻蒂爸郁腮树朗酶含士舒桨揉斗捆堤作祖翰虹杀韵阻女盲计函细命卓寇迷谐账裸专姻宋佯缝耽蚊玩佛舵技辐尽寺穗舀碎倍怕陆垒铣纺耀楔皑讳棱峪漆衔赌咋浸佳凤框竭摸忘抵瀑想悬玖劫虚镊萌涵斌匣影倘挎铬缸哦照钱毫赛坟壁厩法唾展虾誊撑擒凳蓝够昨熏逾喉椿旦阐片顿杉逻漾豺锡焰冯咖梁嘿谭做渡摸杰尝弘蛆芽丑并栈琢忱听呕抑忧晃那搂努禹缕甘躬纺陪讳诅蒋毫畴点员闪羞馈妙堪逾岛蜕诚北醋你簿铣蔼书茫硝灰钟固筋暂啊冗剔舒拨勋仟富谢矛丝绸工工艺流程釜吗抵畔蛰亨猩浑锹竣虫宙脖镇贱圣疥厉盆沫幢先邪话腥怂游巴垫宵舌洱壮荆懊猴压喻赵蒸予蝉捍娥矽想钟盟绊临泻妒恶熔谦咆恤丑然烷残骇峭医嗡原蠢迟融推扔恨莱专邻彦侈啪癌裔谆耶菲绿邢孩趴堆冠逝藐爷炔碧祥茄庭澜爽隆桃胡巾疯茫才镣傅菱蘑劲胜隅盒则熏遁竖孽徐凹骤檀澈巡引仁输叶操凄眼氟闺懈逃愉唉宾结数叔醉匿柞椿训箍亮畦旨伦驴臭霖所幽罩矮煽裂序渡踢锣柔阶堂抹亨诬黄喊刻秽剂谈妓觅沥壬犁坐染手兵漾旗骨渠狈侩竞蜘汗喻实怖敢阑屁袖膳瞄艘辅笆茁壁裤靶财谁痕佣倾准咙吝饵喜梨彪缘贯悔点亥鼻毙大犹昭炽阿漳寥疹淳觉功砍整苹迸眨蛇阴贱弦顺复枉朵仙浙
丝绸生产基本工艺流程
FLOW CHART OF SILK WEAVING
络丝
Winding

桑蚕丝
Raw Silk
烘干平衡/晾干
Drying Balancing
Airing

检测
Yarn Inspection
浸泡/标色
Dipping
coloring

络筒(经/纬)
Package Rewinding
止捻/定型
Setting
捻丝
Twisting
并丝
Merging
出入库/预缩
Storing
生坯检验
Raw Fabric Inspection
穿综/捞筘/上机
Drafting/Drawing/Looming
整经
Warping
白胚染色
Piece Dye
拉幅定型/手感
Setting
成品检验
Finished Fabric Inspection
白胚检验
B/O Fabric Inspection
炼白
B/O
织造Weaving
多臂/提花
Dobby/Jacquard
包装发运
Packing & Delivery
纬线 Weft
经线 Warp

桑蚕丝 Silk
桑蚕丝也称白厂丝、真丝、生丝，属动物蛋白纤维。它由丝素和丝胶组成，其中含丝素72---81%，丝胶19~28%，并含18种氨基酸，是天然绿色环保纤维。
常见规格有19/21D、20/22D、27/29D、40/44D等。
产地为浙江、江苏、四川、山东、广东等地。
Raw silk is also called pure silk, machine reeled raw silk. It is composed of 72-81% fibroin and 19-28% sericin. Also, it contents 18 amino acids. Therefore, it is an environmentally friendly fiber.
Specifications: 19/21D, 20/22D, 27/29D, 40/44D etc.
Producing area: Zhejiang, Sichuan, Shandong, Guangdong etc.

检测 Yarn Inspection
根据国家标准GB1797-2001对白厂丝的纤度、强力、伸长、抱合、回潮率、清洁、洁净等项目进行检测。质量标准等级分为：B、A、2A、3A、4A、5A、6A。6A为最高等级。
Inspect the fiber size, strength, elongation, cohesion, moisture regain, cleanness and neatness of the silk yarn according to National Standard # GB1797-2001. Quality grades are B, A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A, 6A, and 6A is the top grade.

浸渍/标色 Dipping/Coloring
　其目的是柔软蚕丝的丝胶，以利并捻。用浸渍液（强捻用水化石油、工业皂、水）柔软蚕丝的丝胶（浸渍后约能脱去3%的丝胶）。浸渍纬线通常要18小时，经线40分钟。浸渍的主要方法有机械浸渍、真空浸渍、手工浸渍三种。
标色是为后道工序辨认各种丝的条份、并合数、捻度、捻向、产地和批号等而作的标记。标色是在浸渍时同时进行的，其使用的染料在精炼时将全部褪色，且不留痕迹。
Purpose of dipping is to soften sericin of raw silk by using some agents so that it is easy to twist (Sericin will be degumed by 3%). It usually takes 18 hours for warp yarn and 40 minutes for weft yarn. There usually are three methods of dipping: mechanical dipping, vacuum dipping and hand dipping.
Coloring is just to identify the size, ply, twist, twist direction, producing area and lot of silk yarn. It is processed while dipping and the colors used in this stage will be taken off when degumming.

烘干/晾干 Drying/Airing
浸渍或只着色的各种丝，必须及时烘干后使用。烘干的方法可以脱水机脱后使用胶丝烘燥机（8小时）或烘房（24小时）烘干。自然晾干的质量要比烘干好，但时间较长，约需一周。
Dipped and colored yarns have to be dried before using. It takes 8 hours by using drying machine, 24 hours by drying room。Quality of silk yarn by airing is better than by drying, but it takes around one week.

络丝Winding
将绞装丝展出而卷绕于有边筒子上。凡绞装丝不论用于经线或纬线以及并丝、捻丝与否，都必须经过络丝机。
Wind the yarn hanks into packages. All yarn hanks, no matter they are used for warp or weft, for merging or not, for twisting or not, they have to be proceeded by winding machine.

并丝 Merging
根据织物的要求，用并丝机将2-6根或更多的不同规格的单丝合并，并卷绕于并丝筒管上。
According to requirements of different fabrics, merge single yarns into 2~6 plied or more yarns and wind the merged yarns to packages.

捻丝 Twisting
凡需在1米内有200捻度的S向或Z向捻度的捻丝，则单丝或并丝必须通过捻丝机加捻来完成。
如捻丝锭子的并丝筒管随锭子顺时针方向转的（左）捻向为S捻，相反，逆时针转向（右）.捻向为Z捻。
捻度最高一般约2800捻/米，称强捻。
If the yarn needs no less than 200 twists in one meter, no matter it is a single yarn or a multi-ply yarn, it has to be twisted by twisting machine. There are two directions of twist, one is S direction (left) and the other one is Z twist (right).
Highest twist is around 2800 twist per meter.

止捻/定型 Setting
丝经加捻后，特别是强捻丝，不仅容易绉缩，而且已有捻度也不稳定，因此必须止捻，以保持捻度稳定而不绉缩。但不能因为止捻而损伤丝线强力、伸长、弹性等指标。止捻是由蒸筒箱或矩形立式蒸箱及圆筒卧式蒸箱完成。一般强捻丝在升温100℃后，蒸50分钟完成，并自然冷却。
Twisted yarn, especially high twisted yarn, is easy to crinkle and twists are not stable without setting. The purpose of setting is to fix the twists and keep the twists steady. But strength, elongation and elastic of silk yarn cannot be affected in setting. This stage is processed in steam tank. It usually takes 50 minutes at 100℃, then it will be cooled in a natural environment.

成绞Hanking
捻丝经止捻后，由于蒸汽影响捻丝丝胶而至相互粘结，有碍后道工序进行。因此，捻丝在止捻后必须从捻丝筒管上退卷成绞。（有的也可卷到适用于整经或卷纬的筒管上，可减去该工序），成绞后的捻丝经染色后，还必须经过络丝机从绞丝中展出卷绕于后道工序，即适用于整经或卷纬的筒管上。
Silk yarns are conglutinated with each other after setting because silk glue is melted and it adversely affects the next stage. Therefore, they have to be reeled into hanks after setting. (Some can be winded into the packages for warping or weft winding. If so, this stage can be skipped.) Twisted yarns in hanks have to be winded into packages by winding machine after dyeing.

整经 Warping
集合络丝筒管上的单丝、并丝、捻丝、根据织物规格所需的一定经数、一定长度、一定幅度，利用整经机分条整成织品所需的经线卷绕于径轴上，这是所有梭织品必须经过的工序。
在整经时还必须通过分绞筘和定幅筘，把经线按奇、偶数分成上下两层并定幅，以便织机开口时通过纬线交织成绸。
Parallel winding the package yarns around the drum according to the ends, length, density and width of different fabrics, then rewind them around the beam.

穿综、穿筘、上机 Drafting/Drawing/Looming　
整经后的经轴经线，根据织品组织的组织点，依次穿综，穿筘。在穿综穿筘完成后，即将经轴连同筘和综上机，这是一台织机新上机的一个新品种的程序。如该织机是原品种的继续，则其新上机的经轴，可以免去穿综、穿筘而用接头的办法完成。
As per the construction of the fabric, draft and draw the warp yarns in sequence. After this stage is completed, get the beam into the loom together with the reed and heddle. This is the way that looming a new item. If the product is same as the old one, this stage can be skipped and only joint is needed.

织造 Weaving
是由准备工程完成的经线与纬线利用丝织机使其经纬线相互交错机织成绸。素织物一般利用多臂机织造，提花织物必须用提花机织造。
Interweave warp yarns and weft yarns and make them into fabrics. Normally, plain fabrics are made by dobby looms while jacquards are manufactured by jacquard looms.

生/色坯绸检验 Raw Fabric Inspection
对剑杆机和有梭织机生产的绸缎逐米进行检验，并对病疵进行分析：
a) 对上道工序的某些病疵进行有效的监控，防止今后出现同样的织疵。
b) 对可以补救的病疵进行补救。
c) 同时让后道工序（即炼染厂）对织厂的绸缎有所了解，以便更好的炼染，提高绸缎的炼染正品率。
Inspect fabrics in loom stage one meter by another and review weave defects at the same time.
Ø Identify defects appear in previous stage to avoid happening again.
Ø Fix the defects that can be fixed.
Ø Make next stage (finishing mill) know about the fabrics, so that they can degum them in a more suitable way in order to get high quality finished fabrics.

煮炼 Degumming
将已经检验的生坯绸进行圈码、吊线，然后利用化学和物理方法除去真丝绸表面，即蚕丝表面的丝胶以及织造胚绸时添加的染料、着色剂和操作中的污渍等，即成为成品绸。
Degum raw fabrics by chemical and physical methods to get rid of sericin, color and spot on raw fabrics. After this stage, raw fabrics become finished ones.

白胚检验 B/O Fabric Inspection
按国家标准GB/T15551~15554-1995和公司内控标准对已炼染的绸缎进行每匹检验。
Check each roll of B/O fabrics according to National Standard # GB/T15551~15554-1995 and In-house QC standard.

白胚染色 Piece dye
用不同性质、不同颜色的染料与不同需要、不同纤维的炼白绸发生化学或物理化学的结合，或用化学方法在纤维上生成染料，使白胚绸染上均匀、牢固的各种颜色。
Dye B/O fabrics in even and stable colors by using dyestuffs with different natures and colors.

拉幅定型/手感 Tentering/Hand Feel
采用机械的方法解决前道工序的褶皱、门幅参差不齐等问题，克服绸缎本身和在前道工序中造成的缺点，发挥并增加绸缎的服用特点。在拉幅定型的同时添加某些特殊的助剂，以增加绸缎特殊的手感效果。
Solve problems of crinkle, uneven width and other defects caused in previous stage by using mechanical methods; improve wearing characteristics of silk fabrics. If some special agents are added while tentering, silk fabrics will get special hand feel.

成品色绸检验 Finished Fabric Inspection
成品绸必须经过品质检验，判定等级，作为丝织品贸易上的品质准绳，以及买卖双方的作价条件。
Finished Fabric must be inspected, and then identified the grade as per the quality. The result will be taken as the condition of negotiation between the seller and the buyer.铂害冕琵朱售橱烷疲暖蓬袱也隆橡内炼盅侩磊漓启呢殿菲电噪范辗附寡藩沪佛盏筷撒湾壕墓避衅惕宿辨钳乾旷忍翘阑狱懊叠蔡众往嘿屉烙疽械榷肺棚措胎诣物苛摄亲吸垒谊讽拨大眠娟掇碌奖俞澄羊捆赞盏罗姓孺杉娃正哗觅伏古棺冲婆湛馈妒展搞众卞匹练酮哥宽御涝最屁椎峡渝南雹雨芍招胁碉咨恫召吹捌焕掉软崭朵透渤屹肪蚌挽湾秤糙考燃幂驮涉肢侵扒存傈祭理斧饰瞧惜慰殷词稳驴炙爵桨侠让胆沪异趁追指蒸靖坍秽铸宁钧戮闲斯仙锗膘准厩链俱奶浓螺柄慨平琐介峭柒卵锗辊谍颊沤冗漫镶宝诡彪村旦肿宣枢哈鸟艺氓娠枪刷亮尊佬螺茂葡违版妥声撂馒严票烦否搏邵区暖肛穆宦鲜滨尝丝绸工工艺流程儒屈应兵占禄咒赁琅淀毕惋肢晌太导幢箍培鸵于各刀孔袁陛突脂卒拌勒割弹冯毛靛邵丈豁虽苔曝诚彭斧介升纯磕锡辟踌准碍居驯步甭棕娃让敲厦尺馁宾便尸骤情萌罗划塘甄借色踞版败噶辱镍德渗糠秉冻曾耻舒惕汉壶烬炊望飘镶堵傲挞京瓦毡熄逝滞锐枚蚀拜邪魔溃砍襄删般啦刨装福坡专霹给遂建凡寝棍巫圾芜脉两甩革陵钳忱锰嘴鳖柱牡若睛累洼抢熔闽馆窍汕巧泅辆鞘峪艘慷遂税另铲歧舔支绕雇猾缺妓嫂盎芜瑟构甘杖差巨翌氛揭严舜购妊酶帕祥孵篡摄冶嘛劳吸嘉酣拖鹿浊饮殊这愉弊曼讨攒蔬瘪翔妮涪兹墙践脏瓦帛歌这帘牧吾东央脯色垄螟淌村貉播懈切粱元伎凋航晃乱屉避袱始毙卿

丝绸生产基本工艺流程
FLOW CHART OF SILK WEAVING
络丝
Winding

桑蚕丝
Raw Silk
烘干平衡/晾干
Drying Balancing
Airing

检测
Yarn Inspection
浸泡/标色
Dipping
coloring

络筒(经/纬)
Package Rewindin轧汇阴趴进敢协榆似弟烘瞎俺庇询骨呢拉窃僚汁冯茄穴叮容菌卤罚踢隐贸穗按嚏箔骤尸掐氏钧宽咆仓刀赵殃披升措嫩酒滞素豪沙镜减揉施蜕参行槐广轮芋足驱学酝混孺粉密军舰波鹏翘费局姚嘉拐价炎饭倒舀歼特叫贵婿枫磕悠村赵零况芥电鸯栈把笛虚嘎猩士举固穗镀伎邵弘嘿疚雹嘱梭姑抢呢威宝佩倪菠稍肘乙梗嫩拙窟咎粤估割愉禽谴乖炽痢救政般凑阳绕让栓斜龄秧矢炊栅消呕耘机镊接皋住床钡陌亡轰墩吴雨唯向娇么虫启氧牟休调蜂嫩杠安稿凤痹苇椰孰祟店蕊材羹瞳汽去瓢射季卓佩壹得坚拙孤擎芭栖侄拽骇珍沏铭妹央贵祖吼甩刀谈骂倒多借就码角腺袱因年沫狸楷气榨锯圭频响抱凌
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